Saturday 22 September 2012

Not Another 60s Geisha. Prada SS13

Every season Prada is seen as arguably (and I will argue!) the most influential collection of all. This season, or course, is no different.

Miuccia surprised us again - no surprise there. On the surface you could say the collection was Geisha meets 60s flower power, but those weren't so much the defining trends of the collection as they were ambigious vehicles for conveying the new mood.

"I feel, all of us maybe feel, that we have to have a certain behaviour now, that you can’t be decadent" says Miuccia Prada, playing with the concept of impossibilities. The clothes represent everything that seems ridiculous, unheard of, and impossible in modern society and celebrated it. Fur in spring? It feels right now.

Florals for spring? ("Symbolic flowers" at that.) My pet peeve is reborn and stripped of every ounce of the generic. The flowers looked as if they had been spraypainted onto the blacks, whites, soft pinks, and darks greens that seemed impossible colours for spring.

The shoes. Let's talk leather socks with patent-leather bow straps that were sometimes flat on the ground and sometimes on platforms higher than a Nicki Minaj mother f*cker. These were the defining Geisha element, not forgetting the crisp folds that emerged in the latter half of the show.

Francesca Burns, UK VOGUE Fashion Editor tweeted something after the show I find to be a constant Prada truth: "Prada mood cycle: not sure I like this/ this is weird/ oh god those shoes/ these colours are perfect/ this is genius/ dying with desire." It didn't take me long to get to the final step this season.

There's a reason there's a Prada mood cycle. It's because normally people don't immediately like something they've never seen before. (The shock of the new, anyone?) When you witness something truly modern, something truly fresh and genius that redefines the way you look at certain concepts you used to take for granted, it does take a little while for everything to sink in and resonate with you. Prada is an acquired taste, but once is catches on you really cannot help but find yourself "dying with desire."

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Images vogue.it and americanvogue.com

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