History Made (part 2). Saint Laurent SS13

Okay. So. YSL. No, it's just Saint Laurent now. (I have no idea what happened to Saint Laurent Paris. But then again no one knows what happened to Yves either... Whatever.)

Another moment in the designer musical chairs thing happened yesterday in Paris when Hedi Slimane showed his first collection for... Um... Whatever we're calling the house now. Saint Laurent. (tagging this post will be fun)

As with Dior, I feel we may have had our expectations set a little (or a lot) too high. So instead of doing an Anna Wintour-on-Kanye West "ask someone else," I'm going to forget the hype and look on the bright side.

If there's one thing Slimane knows how to do it's create drama. The lighting theatrics at the show matched the 70s on-the-prairie rock girl that Slimane channeled in all her gutsy (sometimes annonomys with those hats) glory. At times the silhouette was very tight, and at times super loose with an almost halo-like cape. Slimane may be commended on his integration of the super casual with the super theatrical.

So, really, there was something for everyone. The vision was strong, and the clothes had bucket loads of personality.

A strong start then.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Images vogue.co.uk

And Breathe Out... Stella McCartney SS13

It's been a big year for Stella (designing the Olympic kit and opening a store in Shanghai may have something to do with this). So it's no wonder she's decided to relax a little.

Obviously a collection of this quality can't be described as a relaxing feat to produce, but perhaps we can think of it as a positive visualisation channeled through work. That's the new Stella woman in a nutshell: she can go on with her busy life and tight schedule without wearing very tight clothes.

Highlights included those super light sheer summer sweaters, the clinical drop-waist green coat dress, and those final Black Coffee-like cocktail dresses. Stella just never disappoints.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Images vogue.co.uk

Tomorrow. Givenchy SS13

Before the new season hit the runway, I was secretly hoping for a more futuristic mood. I was ready to throw out the fashion nostalgia thing move forward to a new identity. And then came the 60s. And then came the 90s.

At least Riccardo Tisci is indulging my vision. Reviewers write about his fine balance of feminine and edgy, and while this was true, I felt the show was much more about the future. A ruffle here, a gold necklace there, and a clean minimalist cut was all I needed to be transported into the tomorrow of fashion.

More of that, please!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Images vogue.co.uk

In Bed With Cèline SS13.

It's great to have Phoebe Philo back in full swing post-baby. She took the lingerie trend that's been popping up this season and gave it her signature minimalist touch.

Draping was huge. Huge. And shiny fabrics. And clutches that seem to have three compartments, all rolled into one desirable bag. And then the shoes: those slippers and fluffy heels that I'm really not quite sure how I feel about yet. They'll definitely be the subject of a huge pile of street style photos.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Images vogue.co.uk

Under Pressure. Comme Des Gracons SS13

This season Comme des Gracons told the story of a designer who was becoming very frustrated - the pressure of the all-demanding fashion world catching up to him. Which fabrics to use? Where to place the sleeves? How to cut?

A million ideas collided into what was finally sent down the runway. The bad ideas were symbolised by scrapyard metal hats perched on the models' heads (I know it seems obvious that that hats were on their heads, but with Comme you shouldn't take anything for granted).

Sure, they weren't wearable. But they weren't trying to be. The clothes showed the darker side of the fast-paced fashion world, reminding us how much work goes into every look we've seen this past month. So really, it was a testament to the brilliance of the fashion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Images vogue.co.uk